Stage - Restaurant Review No.8

Ham it Up at Stage
OK, I have to confess – I have a total “couple crush” on Linda and George. I love these guys as much as I love their culinary children, Paprika Bistro and Stage. Stage – short for “stage productions” – is just what you get in this heavenly ‘hood, with the Belfry Theatre only a block away. They opened Stage on July 7, 2007 and ran both “babies” for 18 months before handing their eldest of the two off to Geoff Parker in January 2009.
Now, George comes from at least three gens of cured meat makin’: his parents ran Szasz Deli in Van for over three decades, while his grandparents (on his father’s side) operated a salami factory in Szeged, Hungary. The result of these many generations has now culminated within the exposed brick walls of Stage. Their “Charcuterie by George” – a playful spin on Cookies by George (available throughout North America) – rocks the palate, in both taste and texture. My fav by far was the porchetta de testa – and yes, that’s headcheese made with the head of a pig, dear hedonists (please do expand your horizons) … luscious and delicious … way beyond perfect. And his smoked ham easily ranks among the top 5 best I’ve ever tasted. (Ever.) And, while on the topic of perfection, the smoked salmon and the kushi oysters – the latter served with a mignonette of lemon zest, fennel fronds, brown sugar and salt – tasted just like heaven should (and also melted in your mouth).
But let’s not stop at Stage’s savory fare; for Stage’s sweet is also worthy of note. There’s the usual suspects – crème brûlée and chocolate pâté with raspberry coulis and crème fraîche. But the goat cheesecake is really worthy of note: served with lemon curd & pistachio biscotti, it revealed a nice balance of the “baaah” bite of the creamy goat cheese, the tangy tartness of lemon curd and the pistachio-laden crunch of the biscotti. The perfect end to a perfect culinary evening.
Want perfection? Go to Stage … and be sure to ham it up!
Submitted January 27, 2009
by Hedonista
Stage, Small Plates Wine Bar
1307 Gladstone Ave.
280.388.4222




